Wednesday, April 09, 2014

Endless Dress Sew Along Day 4

Endless Dress Sew Along Day 4


You should have 3 skirt panels sewn together; a back panel, front panel and another back panel.  Let's sew the band onto the skirt panel.

Sew all three band pieces together along the short side; one back panel, one front panel and another back panel.   Fold the band in half WST and iron.  The band panels will match up exactly with the skirt panels.  Attach the band to the skirt by matching the raw edges, and serge or zig zag stitch.   Iron the seam up to the skirt panel and topstitch.  You have one long skirt piece with the band attached.


Serge the open side of each back panel.  Pin the back panels together marking down 2-3in from the top of the skirt panel.  This will be the opening for the bodice buttons on the empire bodice(if you are doing a regular bodice you do not need the opening at the top of the skirt).  Attach the panels together.


Iron the seam open.  You can see the opening in the picture.


Topstitch around the opening.


Gather the skirt to the same length as the bodice.


With the bodice front facing the skirt front (RST), insert the bodice into the skirt.


Attach the skirt to the bodice.


Serge or zig zag the seam.  Turn the dress right side out and iron the seam up to the bodice.  Topstitch the bodice.


Congratulations!!!!  You completed an Endless Dress!  I hope you had as much fun as I did.  Come back next month for another sew along!


And, we're outta here!


But mom, I don't want to take any more pictures!!!!






Tuesday, April 08, 2014

Endless Dress Day 3

Jocole Endless Dress Sew Along Day 3


Buttons, Buttonholes and Pockets

Are you ready for buttonholes today???  Yikes!  I hope you'll give them a try, even if it's just to practice.  I have a couple of hints before we actually sew the buttonholes.  


Have you ever wondered about that little hole on the arm of the bobbin case?  Well guess what!?!?  You're about to use that sucker!  When the hole is used, it adds a little extra tension to the stitch and gives a nice, tight buttonhole.  The thread goes through the hole on the bobbin case.

Second, the buttonhole foot comes in handy for making --wait for it--buttonholes!  I didn't even realize I had this foot but it came with my machine.  The channels on the bottom of the foot keep the parallel lines of the buttonhole in place.  Just use it like a regular foot and it will work keep everything straight on its own.


Don't laugh, I practiced about 10 buttonholes before I was happy with the buttonhole.  I wanted to make sure I programed the machine correctly.  (Are you sick of me saying buttonhole yet?  I am!)



Start on the actual, real life bodice now.  Buttonholes go on the left and buttons on the right.  (Ignore that I put them on the wrong sides!)

One of my favorite pattern pieces in this PDF is the buttonhole placement guide.  The guide allows you to mark the buttons on the right side and the buttonholes on the left.  The guide insures that the buttons and buttonholes line up correctly.  Genius!

Mark the buttonhole placement on the LEFT side of the bodice back (the picture shows the buttonholes on the wrong side).  This is an empire length bodice so there are 3 buttonholes.  Be sure that the buttonholes are a little longer than the buttons so the buttons slide in easily.  Sew the buttonholes.



Mark the button placement on the RIGHT side of the bodice back(the picture shows the buttons on the wrong side).  Sew on the buttons.  Fabric covered buttons also look really nice, find the tutorial here.

Make sure everything lines up!


Pockets are also an option for the Endless Dress.  Place all 4 pockets RST, at the top of the skirt panels.  Sew the pockets onto the right side of the skirt.


Iron the pocket pieces flat and topstitch.  Place fabric RST and line up all pockets.  Beginning at the top of the skirt; sew down to the pocket, around the pocket and down to the bottom of the skirt (sewing the skirt panels and pocket pieces together).  Serge or zig zag stitch the edges.


Now you have a completed bodice and a skirt panel with pockets sewn on.  Tomorrow we sew the skirt band, gather the skirt and attach the skirt and bodice to finish the dress!  


Endless Dress Sew Along Day 2

Endless Dress Sew Along Day 


Are you ready?  Let's do this!

I'm starting the sew along with my mashup of the Endless and the Circle Flounce.  If you are doing the standard Endless Dress, skip down to the pictures with the yellow striped fabric.

Bodice with Straps

Starting with the shoulder strap pattern piece, fold in half right sides together (RST).  Stitch the long seam together leaving both ends open.


Turn both straps right side out.  I used a Bodkin to turn the straps, just to make it a little easier.


Iron the straps.  I put the seam on the back center of the straps so that my pattern would line up nicely.  You can also line up the seam on the side of the straps (I just like mine hidden).


Topstitch the straps.  I attached my flutters at the outside edge of both straps with a topstitch.  

Bodice

If you are adding the sash, be sure to add it here.  I forgot and had to go back and rip out my seams!  To add the sash, fold the sash in half lengthwise so that there is a piece long enough to go across the front bodice.  Baste the sash at the sides of the front bodice.  Now is a good time to add topstitching to the top finished edge of the sash.  Go ahead and attach the ties as well.  (There are pictures of attaching the sash in the photos of the yellow top.)

Sew the bodice front and back pieces RST at one side seam.  Repeat for the bodice lining.  Iron side seams open.

Position the straps as indicated in the pattern.  Tip:  I should have moved both straps in just a tad(like a 1/4in further to the center) because my "little" has a narrow chest and shoulders.  If you don't trust yourself not to sew over the pins, baste the straps in place.

Place the bodice lining RST on top of the bodice front.  The straps are in the middle of the bodice front and the bodice lining.  Sew both bodice pieces together, reinforcing the strap seam by reversing over that area.


Line up both arm holes and stitch together.


I'm not sure if you know this but it is necessary to clip curves so they will lay nicely.  I always use my pinking shears for curves because I don't like to risk clipping the thread.  The pinking shears help the curves iron out perfectly.

At this point you have the bodice front pieces and the arm holes stitched together.  The bodice back pieces are still open because we need to attach the other end of the straps.


We're about to get real here people!  Stick with me because this is where things get confusing!  

Pull out one strap raw edge from the middle of the bodice front pieces.


Without twisting the strap, find the bodice back and line the strap up on the bodice back piece.  Be sure the straps get attached at the armholes.  In the picture below, the raw edge of the strap is at the top of the bodice back, just next to the armhole.  


With the strap in place, fold the lining piece over the bodice back.  In the picture below, the armhole curve is on the left and the bodice back is open on the right.  Stitch together the top of the bodice back pieces being sure to reinforce the strap area.


Your bodice should look similar to the picture below.
Repeat the whole process for the other side of the bodice back.



Here is another view of the armhole and strap.

Once you have both straps sewn into place, turn the bodice front and back pieces right side out and be sure everything looks right.  So, at this point you have both straps attached to the front and back at the armholes.  Iron the bodice pieces so that everything lays nice a flat.

Here is where I realized I should have attached my sash a looooong time ago.  I had to rip out my side seams to attach the sash.  Don't make that mistake!!!!  So your bodice is almost complete!  We will work on the buttons, button holes and skirt tomorrow!  Yay!  

If you made the strap bodice, you are finished for today.


Traditional Endless Dress Bodice

If you are making the Endless Dress bodice, you are in the right spot!  You should have a pile similar to this.  A bodice front and back and a lining front and back.  The front is cut on the fold and the back is in two pieces.


Start by attaching the bodice front and back pieces at the shoulder seams.


Iron the seams open.


Line up the bodice front and lining pieces exactly.


Starting at the bottom of the bodice back outside piece; sew up the side, around the neckline and back down the back outside.  Also sew the armhole curves.  Use pinking shears to clip the neck and armhole curves. Right now the only open edges are the side seams.


Take the corner of the back piece into the center of the bodice and push it through the shoulder seams, out to the opposite edge.  Repeat on the other side.


Iron the bodice, being sure to press right at the seam.


Sash

Fold the sash in half lengthwise WST and iron flat. 


With the bodice laying flat, pull the lining up toward the neckline.


Pin the sash onto the bodice front, lining up the sides and bottom of the sash with the bodice.


Topstitch the top of the sash.


Stick with me, this part can be confusing (ok, maybe it's not confusing to you but I was a little confused the first time I did this!).

With the lining still up toward the neckline, fold the bodice back piece on top of the bodice front.


Open the bottom edge of the back piece to match the front.  Pin in place.  Both arm curves are together and the side seams are lined up also.  This will create a hidden seam so the lining looks nice a professional.


Repeat on the other side and pin.


Stitch the seams together.  Your bodice should look like this.  Press the seam open.


Carefully iron the side seams being sure everything is flat and straight.  


Shew!  You made it!  Let me know if you have any questions, this can be tricky.  Come back tomorrow for the buttons, button holes and skirt.  We are moving right along!!!!


Sunday, April 06, 2014

Endless Dress Sew Along Day 1

Endless Dress Sew Along Day 1

Easter is already upon us.  Though the Endless Dress can be used for any occasion,  I am making it for an Easter Dress this year.  There are so many variations of this dress that I cannot begin to  lead a sew along with all of the options available.  So, we begin Day 1 by making a choice on the type of dress and embellishments that strike your fancy.  You will need to choose:  a bodice length, skirt length, sleeve type, collar and embellishments(bib front, sash, band, appliqué, bow, etc.).  If your "little" is anything like mine, she will need to be involved in the process so it will actually be worn.  How do they have such opinions at 4 years old????  


Here are some things you will need for this sew along:
  • Endless Dress Pattern printed, taped together and cut to the desired size
  • coordinating fabrics (I used 3 fabrics)
  • buttons
  • interfacing (for buttonholes)


My choices for the Endless Dress and embellishments:
  • Circle Flounce Dress Bodice (it is very similar to the Endless Dress bodice but it has straps)
  • Empire waist (The Circle Flounce Dress bodice is empire waist)
  • Pockets
  • Coordinating sash without a tie (my "little" hates a tie in the back!)
  • Banded knee length skirt (be sure to use the measurements from the add on pack for the skirt and band length and width)
I know what you are thinking -- I don't want to make the Circle Flounce Dress bodice, I want to make the Endless Dress bodice!  No worries!  I will also include instructions for the sleeveless Endless Dress bodice, just for you.

Once you have figured out the dress you want to make, cut out all pattern pieces.  You should have a pile of pattern pieces similar to the picture below.  You can see the straps, bodice front and back, sash, skirt and skirt band.  (I should have pocket pieces in the picture also.  Oops!)



If you are like me, it took quite a while to figure out exactly what version of the dress to make (and I probably changed my mind no less than 10 times!).   As we start tomorrow, you will need all pattern pieces cut and be ready to work on the bodice construction.

Sew Along Schedule:

Day 1:  Decide on dress specifics/embellishments and cut pattern pieces
Day 2:  Bodice construction with sash
Day 3:  Buttonholes, buttons, skirt and pockets
Day 4:  Skirt band and finishing
Day 5:  Share pictures of finished dress

I cannot wait to see how you are progressing in this sew along.  Be sure to share your pictures with me on our Facebook sewing group page here.  I love to hear from you so be sure to ask questions and give me feedback.  I will see you right back here tomorrow for Day 2, when we really get down to business.  Y'all are awesome!