Yoga A-Line Skirt ... using wovens

I get asked ALLLLL the time about how to make the Ladies A-Line Skirt out of wovens ... instead of knits.  So if that is what has been holding you back ... go run out and grab your copy of the pattern ... and then checkout the AMAZING Becca Duval's tutorial for modifying the pattern at Pattern Revolution.

** Becca Duval is a lifestyle photographer based out of Richmond, Virginia.  She juddles life with two kids, two resuce dogs, and her super-fine husband.  She's a hard-core DIY-er who loves sewing, crafting and tackling home decor projects.

Tiered Maxi Skirt Pants Tutorial

Hello! This is Harmony from 3Giraffes back to show you how to make an awesome pair of pants that look like a tiered maxi skirt for kids.

Why would you want to do this, you ask!? Wellllllll if your child is anything like my children, they have yet to figure out that skirts are supposed to stay DOWN. And that hanging upside down, or sticking your leg in the air are unacceptable things to do while wearing a skirt. I've had this idea kicking around in my head for a while and finally decided to just jump in, figure it out, and make something that I hoped my girls would love and want to wear.

The first pair I made turned out pretty cute, but I could see where I could improve on them. So of course I HAD to make another pair the next night. hehehehe I love the way the second pair turned out even more than the first pair. They are perfect!!

For the technique/instructions that follow I would suggest not going above a size 6. At the end*** of the post I will say my thoughts about larger sizes in this style and how I think it would work out best.

First you need your favorite pants pattern. *MY* personal favorite is Jocole's Essential Pants. But I'm sure the other pants patterns would work just as well for this. (Everyday Ruffle Knit, Flounce Ruffle, Mega Ruffle, maybe even the Skinny Minnie)

All of the actual measurements that I'm posting are for the size 4 pants and include a 3/8" seam allowance. I am including instructions on how to get those measurements so that the same technique can be used for ANY size pants.

Use the pattern for whatever size pants you would normally make. Measure down about an inch below the crotch and go straight across from there. It's like cutting out super daisy dukes. But don't worry! It will eventually be a pair of pants! You could either do what I do and just fold up the pattern so it's all hiding underneath, or you could cut it off and tape it back together. It's up to you!

Micro Daisy Dukes compared to the entire pants pattern. The pink lines are on the size 4.

Next measure from your 1" below the crotch measurement to the hemline. In the case of the size 4 it's 15 3/4" to where the actual hem should end. I use this measurement because I wanted to do a serged finish on this instead of folding under for a 1" hem. BUT even if you want to do a 1" folded under hem you should still remove that 1" from this measurement for your pants at this time. It will be added back in later. (I promise it will make sense as to why later!)

Take this measurement (in the case of the size 4 - 15 3/4") and divide in half (7 7/8").

Halfway point between the bottom hemline and the 1" under the crotch markings.

Then add for seam allowance (3/8") x2 (1 5/8") for the top tier piece (total of 9.5").  This is how high your first tier will be. If you want to do just a serged bottom for the second tier then this is also how high your second tier will be. If you want to do a 1" folded under hem then this is when you add 1" to the measurement for the second tier only. Next you need to measure how wide your first tier should be.

Lay out your micro daisy duke pieces, overlapping the seam width at the side seam (if there is one depending on which pattern you use). Measure how long the bottom is. (For the size 4 it's 17.25".)

Front and back cut out super short daisy dukes.

For the first tier you want to have a piece that is your first measurement from the steps just above (for the size 4 it's 9.5") x 1.5 times the width of the bottom of the shorts. So for the first tier for a pair of size 4 pants you need a piece that is 9.5" x 25.5". (The 25.5" is because the bottom of the shorts would measure 17.25". Take this, divide in half and you have 8.63"...I rounded it down to 8.25" to make measurements even. I like easy numbers...and lets face it a fraction of an inch" isn't going to make this ruffle that much rufflier. Add 17.25" and 8.25" and you have 25.5".)

For the second tier you need to use your height measurement (either including or excluding a hem allowance) x 1.5 times the width of the first tier. So for me it was 9.5" x 38.25".

Sew the micro daisy dukes as if you are going to make them shorts as-is. Right sides together, center front. Right sides together, center back. Open both front and back and put them right sides together and sew the sides. Do NOT sew up the crotch/inseam yet!!

Mark the center points of each of your tier strips and gather them all using whatever gathering method you prefer. Right sides together pin one of the gathered first tiers to one leg, matching up your marked center to your side seam (if there is one). Do the same thing with the first tier to the second leg. Sew these together. Mark the center of the bottom of the first tier and pin the right sides of the second tier to the first leg matching up the center points. Do the same thing with the second leg. Sew tier 1 and tier 2 together.

Now sew up the entire inseam starting at the bottom of one leg, all the way up, to the crotch, and back down the other leg. Turn right side out and hem however you have chosen to. Attach elastic.

And voila! Pretty awesome maxi skirt pants!! YAY!

Looks like a skirt with the legs together, right!?

The hardest part is the math for it all. And really, as long as you have a good guestimating mind or a calculator that's not even hard to do! It's all addition and division.

Shirt was made using the Easy Cap Sleeve shirt pattern and altering it. But that tutorial is for another day! :)

***Thoughts on doing sizes larger than a 6: Starting at a size 6 or 7 and up to a girls size 12 or 14 there should be four or more separate sections. The first section would be the micro daisy dukes and then three or more tiers. This is more for aesthetic reasons because the point of these pants is to get the full maxi skirt look. Since the kiddos are taller/bigger it needs to be fuller at the bottom to achieve this. You would do the calculations in the same manner, but the height of each tier would be based on dividing the leg portion by 3 or 4 (depending if you have 3 tiers or 4 tiers) instead of 2. You would continue to do the length of each tier as 1.5x the length of the piece above it for a beautiful full skirt look.

Jodi, thank you for letting me come play over here again!! It was fun!

Lengthening the Mega Ruffles to Straight Pants

FREE tutorial on how to modify the Mega Ruffle Pants pattern from Jocole to eliminate the ruffe and turn them into straight leg pants.

This is how I modify the pattern to use for my son (he's not a fan of ruffles).

Materials Needed:

Mega Ruffle Pants -- pdf sewing pattern

pencil or pen

ruler

scissors

paper and tape

Suggested Fabrics:

Lightweight woven fabrics like quilting cottons, flannel, batiste, lawn, broadcloth, linen, chambray, poplin, seersucker, lightweight suiting fabrics, lightweight denim, twill, lightweight corduroy

*** Alternative Fabrics: Consider making your Mega Ruffle Pants out of knit fabrics like: jersey, interlock or rib knit.

Cutting Instructions:

Makes sure you cut your pieces so that you have 2 opposite front leg pieces and 2 opposite back legs pieces.

The following picture is shown on a size 5, the blue lines are the original pattern lines, the RED lines are the newer pattern adjustment lines.

Sewing Instructions:

Compete Steps 1 through 21 shown exactly like in the pdf pattern.

Skip steps 22 through 33 (the ruffle instructions).  Instead press up the hem 3/4" and topstitch it in place.

Cuffed Pajamas Tutorial -- Classic Tee & Leggings modification

FREE tutorial on how to modify the Classic Tee and the Leggings patterns from Jocole to add knit cuffs at the bottom of the sleeves and legs.

Materials Needed:

Classic Knit Tee or Ruffle Tee (or Mix&Match Classic Sleeve) -- pdf sewing patterns

Basic Knit Leggings or Ruffle Leggings -- pdf sewing patterns

Pencil or pen

Ruler

Scissors

Paper and tape

Suggested Fabrics:
Jersey (my favorite is cotton/spandex), interlock, rib knit
** your cuffs need to be VERY stretchy, something with lycra/spandex is recommended.

the following picture is shown on a size 5, the blue lines are the original pattern lines, the RED lines are the newer pattern adjustment lines.

1.         FOLD the cuff in half lengthwise.  Align the short sides, RIGHT sides together.  Pin if necessary.

2.         STITCH cuff into a loop using a 3/8” seam allowance, RIGHT sides together.

[If using a serger, STITCH using a 1/4” seam allowance, trimming 1/8” from the edge.]

3.         FOLD cuff in half, aligning the raw edges, WRONG sides together.

4.         MARK cuff into quarters. 

5.         MARK your sleeve/legging into quarters.

6.         With the sleeve/legging RIGHT side out, slip inside the cuff, RIGHT sides together, aligning the edges and matching the quarters marks and pin into place.

7.         STITCH cuff into place along the sleeve/legging using a 3/8” seam allowance.  You’ll need to stretch the cuff so it matches the length of the opening, but don’t over stretch!!  Backstitch to reinforce seam.  Start stitching at center back seam of the waistband.  A zigzag stitch is recommended for optimal stretchiness.

           

[If using a serger, STITCH using a 1/4” seam allowance, trimming 1/8” from the edge.]

8.         SEAM FINISH the raw edges of the cuff.

FINISHED CUFF ... doesn’t it look fantastic ?!?!

Knit Binding Tutorial

Hello everyone! I'm Harmony and I'm the designer behind 3Giraffes. I LOVE using Jocole patterns. They are fabulous. I also love using different techniques and adjusting patterns or adding to them to make something totally different and fun and new, but still have the perfect fit that the original pattern has.

Today is a tutorial on how to do a knit/stretch binding instead of using traditional elastic, fancy edged elastic (like picot or ruffle edged), or fold over elastic. This will be done using Jocole's awesome women's Basic Brief Bottoms pattern and some cotton lycra. You could most definitely use this tutorial for the kids undies pattern as well.

First cut out your underwear pieces out of your chosen knit fabric. Make sure to trim away a seam allowance since this will not be folded under. Then it's time to cut your binding strips.

First you need to know how wide of a seam you're going to have. Then you cut a strip 3x your seam wide x the length you need as if you are using elastic minus about an inch. In my case, my seam allowance is about 3/8". Which means I need my strips to be 1 1/8" wide. I made them about 1 1/4" wide because it can't hurt to have a little extra to work with.

After the crotch is sewn you sew on the strip with right sides together along one leg opening. Stretching as you go just like with elastic.

After its sewn on it looks like this. You see the right sides.

And like this on the inside.

You sew one side seam after both the legs have the binding piece sewn on. Making sure the seam is pointing down into the binding piece.

Then sew on the binding for the waist, then sew the other side seam with the waist seam pointing up into the binding and leg seam pointing down into the binding. It looks like this all together.

 

Then you make sure the seam is in the binding and fold the binding over top.

 

And I guess you should pin it in place...but I don't. I confess that I use pins as little as possible. This is what it looks like underneath.

Do a stretch/straight stitch right along the edge of the seam. Or in the seam if you can. (This is what is referred to as a "stitch in the ditch.") You can see a difference in the finished side vs unfinished side.

 

Then once it's all sewn down properly you trim off the binding on the inside.

Before trimming.

During trimming.

Super comfortable! And a fun way to finish off an edge when you run out of elastic or want to use a stretchy fabric instead of elastic for a different look.

Please excuse the awful pictures for this tutorial. If I knew it was going to turn into a blog posting I would have used my real camera instead of my awful phone! I promise next time will have better pictures. :)

Thank you so much Jodi for inviting me to come play here today!! You are awesome and I'm honored that you have asked me to contribute.

Modification -- Maxi Length Adjustment

http://www.jocole.net/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_29&products_id=129

The Crossover Tunic & Dress is one of my FAVORITE patterns ... it's also my favorite to  adjust and make modifications and alterations to.  It's SO versatile.

This tutorial shows you how to modify the Crossover Tunic & Dress pdf sewing pattern into a maxi length dress.  You can use this tutorial for both the ladies pattern or the girls pattern -- it includes measurements for all sizes.

**This is NOT a finished pattern, just a tutorial on how you can modify the pattern from my shop.

This method and measurements will also work on the Radiant A-Line Bottom patterns from the Mix & Match Series.

Modification -- Adding Sleeves to the Crossover Tunic & Dress

http://www.jocole.net/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_29&products_id=130

The Crossover Tunic & Dress is one of my FAVORITE patterns ... it's also my favorite to  adjust and make modifications and alterations to.  It's SO versatile.

Have you seen this pattern in my shop and thought about purchasing it but decided against it because cap-sleeves aren't your thing?  You are NOT alone.  This has been requested ... a LOT.  I've  decided to write up a tutorial on altering the pattern to adjust for set-in sleeves.

This tutorial shows you how to modify the Crossover Tunic & Dress pdf sewing pattern for different sleeve lengths..  You can use this tutorial for both the ladies pattern or the girls pattern.

**This is NOT a finished pattern, just a tutorial on how you can modify the pattern from my shop.

You can use ANY of the sleeve options that are available in the Mix&Match series. 

This can also be used on the Easy Cap-Sleeve Tee pdf sewing pattern.

Modification - Crossover Halter

http://www.jocole.net/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=8_29&products_id=128

The Crossover Tunic & Dress is one of my FAVORITE patterns ... it's also my favorite to  adjust and make modifications and alterations to.  It's SO versatile.

This tutorial shows you how to modify the Crossover Tunic & Dress pdf sewing pattern into a halter top or dress.  You can use this tutorial for both the ladies pattern or the girls pattern.

Includes TWO different sewing instructions for completing the halter.

**This is NOT a finished pattern, just a tutorial on how you can modify the pattern from my shop.

Pair with the Ladies Leggings or the girls Ruffle Leggings in the short length to create a super cute tankinis for summer.

Hi-Lo Skirt -- adjustment and modification

Hi-Lo skirts are ALL the rage ... instead of creating and selling a separate pattern I've decided to write up a quick tutorial on modifying the Ladies Yoga A-Line Skirt pattern from Jocole.  (Photo above courtesy from Nikki Luke).

I'm passing along the savings to YOU !!!  You're welcome.

First ... you'll need to purchase and print and tape together TWO copies of the pattern  (one for the front and one for the back). [BELOW]

 

Next you'll need to draw your new cutting line for the front (aka the "high" portion of the skirt) -- shown in RED.  [BELOW].

**These lines are shown on the largest size, of course you'll need to draw them on whichever size you are planning on making.

Then ... you'll need to draw your new cutting line for the back (aka the "low" portion of the skirt) -- shown in BLUE. [BELOW].

**These lines are shown on the largest size, of course you'll need to draw them on whichever size you are planning on making.

BELOW you'll see a close up of the front (RED) and the back (BLUE).

** You could totally use this concept on other patterns as well ... the basic idea needs to stay the same ... the front needs to curve up ... the back needs to curve down ... and the side seams NEEEED to be the same length

Maternity Skirt -- adjustment & modification

Did you know you can EASILY change the Yoga A-Line Skirt pdf sewing pattern from Jocole into a maternity skirt ... yup ... it's easy.  I promise.  Of course you don't HAVE to make the adjustment ... this is if you want to wear the skirt below your belly.  Above photo courtesy of Kirsten from Sugarplum Cuties .... isn't she the CUTEST pregnant momma ever??

Draw a new line for the FRONT of your skirt.  Start 3"-4"below the original waist and curve it up to the side seam (shown on a XXXL ... of course you would end on whatever size you are planning on making).  Use the original line for the back pattern piece.  You also will want to add 3" to 4" more length to the yoga waistband to help accommodate your cute growing belly.

D-O-N-E ... that's all it take ... so go get sewing.  These skirts are SUPER cute and sew up SO fast ... as one tester said ... they are like CLASSY sweatpants --- they are *that* comfortable.  Yup you're going to want to wear your new skirts EVERY day.

Yoga Waistband Modification

Do you have any of my knit pants patterns: Basic Knit Leggings, Ruffle Leggings or Everyday Ruffle Pants??  How about the Essential Pants, the Mega Ruffle Pants, the Flounce Ruffle Pants or even the Skinny Minnie Pants ??  They all feature an elastic waist ... have you ever wished you could do a yoga waist instead?!

pssst ... the instructions for adding the Extreme Ruffles (shown above) to the leggings patterns can be found HERE.

Well ... you ladies have twisted me arm ... but instead of creating and selling new patterns I've decided to write up a quick tutorial on modifying the existing patterns ... and passing along the savings to you !!  You're welcome.

For the Everyday Ruffle Pants or the Leggings::  Draw a new line (shown in RED) 1" below the original cutting line for whatever size you are planning on sewing.

For the Essential Pants, Mega Ruffle Pants, Flounce Ruffle Pants or Skinny Minnie Pants::  Draw a new line (shown in RED) 1 1/2" below the original cutting line for whatever size you are planning on sewing.

Cut a strip that is 4 1/2" wide for a regular knit yoga waistband ... or 8 1/2" for a knit fold-over yoga waistband ... and then cut the length of the yoga band use the cutting measurements included in the patterns for the elastic.

Skip the instructions for applying the elastic waist ... and instead follow THESE instructions ...

(above) FOLD the yoga waistband in half lengthwise.  Align the short sides, RIGHT sides together.  STITCH waistband into a loop using a 3/8" seam allowance.

 (above)  FOLD yoga waistband in half, aligning the raw edges, WRONG sides together.

 (above)  MARK yoga waistband and the waist of your Leggings or Everyday Ruffle Pants into quarters.

With the pants RIGHT side out, slip the pants inside the yoga waistband, RIGHT sides together, aligning the top edges and matching quarter marks and pin into place.

(above) STITCH yoga waistband into place along the waist of the pants using a 3/8" seam allowance.  You'll need to stretch the waistband so it matches the length of the waist opening, but don't over stretch !!  Backstitch to reinforce seam.  Start stitching at center back seam of the waistband.  A serger's overlock stitch or a zigzag stitch is recommended for optimal stretchiness. 

Done and Done ... super easy ... and SUPER comfy ...